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Old 07-14-2011, 01:31 PM   #11
BobRoosth
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Certainly.
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Old 07-14-2011, 02:55 PM   #12
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Ok...using the link I'd posted before and also searched on 'film scanner' (did use single quote marks), I browsed around ebay and there is lots and lots of 35mm scanners available but not much in the way of medium/large format neg scanners but I did find a Microtek i900 Medium Format (also does 35mm) scanner listed with a buy it now price of $99 (ebay item number: 220812242335 in case the link above doesn't work). I'd suggest taking a look at this one...asap and do the buy it now...

Alternatively, buy a 35mm film/slide scanner inexpensively on ebay--I've been pleased with the Plusteck OptiFilm 7200 I bought and I have my old Minolta Dimage II (might sell that on ebay)--and then search for a service that could scan the larger format negs for you.

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Old 07-15-2011, 06:36 AM   #13
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It was sold before I got to it, but thanks for looking. I can't buy that quick anyway ... it would require an entire grant process. I really looking for something in a couple years (things move slowly in education).

Good to know that such a beast exists. It looks like just what I would need.
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Old 07-15-2011, 06:37 AM   #14
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So you could take a pixel sample from the border area of the image, which is generally clear, and then use that?

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Old 07-15-2011, 07:09 AM   #15
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Same idea, yes. I'd go for the clear area between frames rather than at the edges, where there are more likely to be processing artifacts that'd throw everything off.

   
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Old 07-15-2011, 12:09 PM   #16
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Quote:
donmcc: It was sold before I got to it, but thanks for looking. I can't buy that quick anyway ... it would require an entire grant process. I really looking for something in a couple years (things move slowly in education).
Too bad it was gone--figured that might happen.


>>Good to know that such a beast exists. It looks like just what I would need.

I thought it did too...did a quick searh on 'microtek i900 scanner' (used the single quote marks) and found an amazon listing with more spec details...that you might find useful...and another place that actually has it in stock...

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Old 07-15-2011, 08:30 PM   #17
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I wonder how the market for film scanners is going to play out over the course of a couple of years, or however long it takes to get the grant and set things in motion.

The last of the Nikon scanners just dropped off the market in the past year or two. It's easy to imagine the used market drying up, as well. But equally easy to imagine that people who bought in the past few years will be finishing up their projects and wanting to sell their scanners.

I have a Minolta DiMage Scan Multi Pro. With the right carriers, it can scan film up to 6 x 9 cm, which gets a lot of the older roll film sizes. Nikon made one -- the Super Coolscan 9000 ED -- that could handle a similar range of film sizes.

When the scanners go off the market, the driver updates stop coming, too. That's why VueScan is such a big help. It'll run under a wide range of operating systems and talk with a huge number of scanners. Personally, though, I prefer the Minolta software for mine, and I'm maintaining archaic operating systems (Windows 2000, and holding with Snow Leopard on the Mac side) so I can continue to use the Minolta software.

For processing the scans, a lot depends on the quality you need. If you just need to be able to identify people and places, you can sacrifice a lot of quality and save a lot of time. (And maybe even get satisfactory results from a flatbed scanner with film-scanning capabilities.)

I've gotten in the habit of a workflow that begins with a "linear" scan, which I then run through a Photoshop plug-in called ColorPerfect [http://www.c-f-systems.com/Plug-ins.html]. That inverts the scan (the linear scans of negatives produce a negative image) and, in the process, preserves a very good range of grays (or more colorful midtones in color images). But it's kind of fiddly, so if speed is important, you might not want to bother with that.

I second the kudos for Photoshop's spot healing brush. But, again, you can wind up spending an hour or two or even more on just one scan if you want to get it looking really good. If you just need to be able to recognize faces and places, you may not want to invest the time to clean things up that much.

   
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Old 07-16-2011, 11:38 AM   #18
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Quote:
john: I have a Minolta DiMage Scan Multi Pro. With the right carriers, it can scan film up to 6 x 9 cm, which gets a lot of the older roll film sizes.
I knew Minolta made a scanner that scanned other sizes in addition to 35mm but I couldn't remember which model so thanks for mentioning yours...'-}}


>>I second the kudos for Photoshop's spot healing brush. But, again, you can wind up spending an hour or two or even more on just one scan if you want to get it looking really good. If you just need to be able to recognize faces and places, you may not want to invest the time to clean things up that much.

That's certaining something that can be done well after the fact rather than immediately after scanning and it could be that I just have particularly dirty slides but even using a slide/neg cleaning brush, I still find lots of crud in my scans...'-}}

I know there some sort of solution one can buy--PEC?--and I've considered it but then I'd have to dismount and remount my slides which seems more trouble than using the Healing brush however, for negatives it might be worth getting...

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Old 07-20-2011, 01:17 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terrie View Post
I know there some sort of solution one can buy--PEC?--and I've considered it but then I'd have to dismount and remount my slides which seems more trouble than using the Healing brush however, for negatives it might be worth getting...
You also increase the risk of doing physical damage to the film or emulsion any time you use cleaning solutions on the film.

I don't know what trained archivists recommend. In recent years I've avoided any attempts to do more than blow and brush dust off.

With some of my pix, that means there's a lot of Photoshop clean-up to be done. And much of the oldest and dirtiest of the film is half-frame 35mm, so each little mote of dust is twice as much damage.

   
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Old 07-20-2011, 02:43 PM   #20
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Quote:
john: You also increase the risk of doing physical damage to the film or emulsion any time you use cleaning solutions on the film.
Yes...I think that's another reason I've not pursued other cleaning methods...


>>With some of my pix, that means there's a lot of Photoshop clean-up to be done. And many of the oldest and dirtiest of the film is half-frame 35mm, so each little mote of dust is twice as much damage.

It always amazes me how much crap shows up in the scan...'-}}

Photoshop's Healing brush does make life much easier but it can be quite tedious although I always feel like I've accomplished something when I've finished...'-}}

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