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Old 09-05-2006, 06:17 AM   #10
Cristen Gillespie
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 814

Originally Posted by ElyseC View Post
I tried it and tested against what I got from ol' Mode > Grayscale and maybe it was the image I tried it with, but I couldn't tell the diff between the best of the Russell Brown method and simply changing Mode.

I supposed I should do a lot more experimentation on lots of images, but this first test hasn't persuaded me. Mode changing takes maybe two seconds (if you're a slow mouse mover).
If you mainly convert portraits to greyscale, you'll possibly not find using digital "filters" to be of any real benefit. The straight change uses heavy input from the green channel, some from the red, and almost nothing from the blue. This makes it a good general purpose conversion, but less than meeting the full potential of some kinds of images.

You're not going to want to use a deep red or orange filter on a portrait, normally, but you would on a landscape, perhaps, especially if you needed to punch up a sky. In the case of portraits, you can delete all but the green channel and often have a satisfactory conversion, so if that's what you're doing, stick with mode conversion (takes 3 keys on my Mac, no mousing about it<G>)

I have Russell, and several other B&W conversion methods, on speed dial. I'm currently enamored of one that uses Calculations. '-) But that's because I do this routinely with all types of subjects, either for the sake of creating a B&W or to use a B&W conversion layer in luminosity mode for super quick tonal adjustments.

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