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Old 02-15-2005, 01:50 PM   #1
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Default Tweaking the HP i9900

We just got this printer, and while the color is nice, it's fast and very very quiet, we're finding that the prints are coming out bluer than we'd like.

Just wondering if anyone has already fixed this so I can avoid a day of testing... I've never had an 8-ink printer before.

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Old 02-16-2005, 12:48 PM   #2
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Dave...you might check on the ColorSync list as there are lots of questions like that on the list--and answers too...'-}}

However, are you using any color management tools with this printer and if so, what?

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Old 02-16-2005, 01:37 PM   #3
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the answers lie in your rip.

huge differences are made by different profiles, diff materials, etc. On my Encad, for instance, i get better "pop" with a profile for an ink I do not use than I get with the "proper" profiles.

Tinker.

   
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Old 02-17-2005, 11:29 AM   #4
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Recommended RIP for driving this printer?
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Old 02-17-2005, 12:37 PM   #5
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>>mact: i get better "pop" with a profile for an ink I do not use than I get with the "proper" profiles.

Are these custom profiles or are they the profiles supplied with the printer?

Does the Encad have recommended papers and are you using those?

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Old 02-19-2005, 09:31 AM   #6
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Dunno. I've not heard of this HP device. Doesn't efi-Best Color support it? Imation? In general I'm not overly impressed with the large format rips (Flexi, Wasatch, etc) used with desktop printers for prepress proofing.

My BestColor-Canon 8500 combo (both "obsolete" now) produces what I think is a good, cheap digital proof that works 98% as well as a Color Key. (the glitch is that a Key is made directly from the film and sometimes, rarely but it happens, there can be a difference between what my Harlequin makes as a cmyk tiff--to send to the proofer--and what it makes as separate raster files for the Lino from the same preseparated source file).

I have several sets of (a) Color Keys and (b) printed item (from 2-color GTO) as well as (c) Best proofs all from the same file. Neither of the "proofs" duplicates the press sheet, each is "off" by about the same degree. Giving the choice of a $12 digital proof or a $60 analog proof an obvious answer. Plus the fact that analog proofing material is not readily available any more. Last time I tried to buy Color Key not even the factory had any 25-packs of 20x24 Cyan and told me it would take 2 months to get some.

I don't even use the recommended Canon or Best papers -- instead using Epson A3+ matte finish, since it is readily available locally for less than $40/box of 100. The Canon paper is both not readily available and far, far too white and bright for #2 or #3 offset. The glossy photo paper looks nice, but at 5-10 times the cost (and the fact that the gloss is not illustrative of the target offset grades) so it's not a candidate.

It have found it important to use Canon Inks unless you can write a new profile from scratch (which i can'[t). Using a scanning densitiometer (DTP-31) works great for setting the linearity of the printer.

(you said you were getting too much blue...Do you have any way in the software to tweak the linearity? A std color press densitometer will work--might take 20 min to measure the spots on the target)

Hope this helps.

   
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Old 02-19-2005, 09:35 AM   #7
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<<Are these custom profiles or are they the profiles supplied with the printer?

Does the Encad have recommended papers and are you using those?>>

They are profiles that are "in" the rip. And of course I'm not using the Encad branded papers or Encad branded inks. Costs too much, with too low performance.<G>

But the point is that with a little experimentation (and if the result desired is not as a prediction of something else--like a prepress proof) you can tinker with using what the software may supply as different ink and paper profiles until you get what you like.

   
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Old 02-19-2005, 10:14 AM   #8
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Isn't this a Cannon Printer rather than an HP?

   
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Old 02-19-2005, 10:43 AM   #9
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of course. But I thought it illustrated what can be done with a high-end desktop inkjet and an appropriate rip.

Since I don't have an HP, I could only illustrate my experience by reference to the big Canon.

   
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Old 02-19-2005, 12:07 PM   #10
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>>mact: They are profiles that are "in" the rip.

Ahhh...of course...can you create your own custom profiles for use in the RIP?? I know there are some RIPS (ImagePrint???) that the company will do "custom" profiles for you if you let them know what papers you are using but I don't know how common that is.


>>And of course I'm not using the Encad branded papers or Encad branded inks. Costs too much, with too low performance.<G>

LOL!!!


>>But the point is that with a little experimentation (and if the result desired is not as a prediction of something else--like a prepress proof) you can tinker with using what the software may supply as different ink and paper profiles until you get what you like.

I'm sure...I don't use a RIP and so I only know what I read about on the ColorSync or other lists...I know one is supposed to linearize the printer/press but I don't really know exactly what that means in practical terms...

When I bought my Epson 4000, the provided paper profiles (no RIP) were quite good--both on Epson papers and the Hawk Mountain art papers I use. I decided to have a custom profile made for the Hawk Mountain paper I use most frequently and while the difference wasn't large, there was enough of a difference--for the better--that I felt I'd spent my money wisely as my output is much more consistent...so much so that I don't think twice that my output will look like my screen.

I had another custom profile done for the Strathmore Creative cardstock I use and it's again been worth the $40 for the profile as I've found I can use it on all my uncoated paper not just the Strathmore cardstock...

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